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Jewelry Artisan • Gemologist • Designer
SUPERIOR DETAIL AND ACCURACY
Diamond Clarity Grading
CLARITY GRADING
INCLUSIONS AND CHARACTERISTICS
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Diamond Clarity is defined by the amount of inclusions or clarity characteristics found in or on a diamond. Natural Diamonds are not produced in a sterile enviroment. They grow 90 to 120 miles beneath the earth. If you consider the pressure and heat that diamonds form in, it is hard for a diamond to be free of flaws.
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Laboratories provide diamond plots (maps) of internal and external charateristics. This identifies the diamond just as your fingerprint identifies you. There are up to 34 different types of clarity characteristics. Diamonds containing less blemishes and inclusions are considered more valuable.
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Six categories can be seen for Clarity grading. Those categories are Flawless, Internally Flawless, Very Very Slightly Included, Very Slightly Included, Slightly Included, and Included. Those categories are separated into levels.
After inclusions are located under the microscope by the Gemologist, they then assign a Clarity grade using the jeweler's loupe with 10x magnification (aplanatic and achromatic preferred lens.)
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Just like Color Grading, there are different grades and categories given to a diamond in order to price them. They are in the image provided above.
THE FIVE FACTORS
There are five factors to consider when assigning a GIA clarity grade to any category. Those factors are:
Size | Location | Number | Relief | Nature
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You have to assess the five factors and rate them accordingly to decide which Clarity Grade the diamond falls in. Certain factors have more effect on the diamond than others. All elements have to be taken into account. When bordering on two grades, the best thing to do is consider size. Size will place the diamond in the appropriate category. From there you can eliminate the factors that do, or do not, have such an impact on the diamond's clarity; assigning the appropriate grade.
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See the microscopic imaging below (done by Kanonn's) that better describes the factors:
Size of the Inclusions
Are they relatively small, noticeable, or obvious to a trained grader at 10x magnification?
On the left is a diamond with a very large feather. Right is a diamond with a smaller feather and crystals under the table.
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Though the smaller combination of inclusions are under the table have a high relief factor, they are still less obvious when being viewed through a jeweler's loupe,
Location of the Inclusions
Are the the majority of inclusions under the table or within the crown area? In addition, are they within the bottom (below the Girdle) or within the top (above the Girdle) of the diamond?
The diamond on the left shows the inclusions under the Table. This is more obvious than the diamond on the right with the inclusions off to the side.
Number of the Inclusions
To the left is a diamond with many inclusions. Some people call this "Salt and Pepper" in the trade. Given the amount of inclusions in the stone alone, this would be categorized as an I1.
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The diamond to the right has inclusions under the table and they are high relief. However, because of the fewer inclusions, it was designated SI2.
High Relief or Contrasting Inclusions
This is simply determining if the inclusion contains color or is dark in contrast to the diamond.
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Given diamonds in demand are colorless to near colorless, you would prefer the inclusions to be colorless. Any black inclusion will contrast to the highest degree. Light Grayish relief is typically not so noticeable.
Nature of the Inclusion to the Diamond
What type of inclusions are in the diamond?
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Some are more severe that others; some are not severe at all. Left shows feathers under the table. They are encapsulated by the diamond; sitting just below the table.
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The feather on the right actually breaks the surface of the diamond. If the ring was struck hard enough on something during wear, the stone could sever.
